Perhaps slightly out of character for this blog, this post is not going to be about a miniature project that I have recently completed. Instead, I want to talk to you all about a few products that I think have improved my hobby experience – whether it be cheaper alternatives to mainstream products, high quality tools that make life easier or even just tips and tricks that you have likely already heard about but for whatever reason haven’t yet put into practice. Chances are, I’ve probably mentioned some of these in passing during my previous posts, but others it’ll be the first I’ve spoken of them here. Some may be little known and some of these might be common sense – of course, if you read something here that you already knew about, just consider it vindication. Sweet, sweet vindication.
Aaaand just for the record, this is not a sponsored post and I don’t have any hidden agenda for promoting these products; I just wanted to shout out some stuff that I genuinely love and thought might be of interest to some of you. I’m not affiliated with any of the product manufacturers. The only monetization on this page is my Element Games and Amazon affiliate links – if you end up buying something from Element Games or Amazon after following any of my links to their site, I get a commission at no extra cost to you. I thought that was worth mentioning for the sake of transparency.
With that out of the way, here are 6 or 7 hobby products that make my life better (in no particular order of importance):
Vallejo Big Texture Pots
Everyone knows about Games Workshop’s Texture Paint product range. And for good reason – they’re extremely quick and easy to use. I’ve always despised the classic, time-tested approach of gluing down sand and debris and drybrushing over the top. The rattle can primer would never seem to 100% cover the crevices, and getting watered down paint into all of those nooks and crannies, waiting for it to dry, brushing.. all of it was a huge pain. And for all your trouble, you end up with bases that look closer to debris than earth.
The first time I applied some of Games Workshop’s “Astrogranite” texture paint to a base, I was absolutely captivated. It was quick, it was easy. You could do it before or after painting the miniature. Sure, it takes a while to dry – but so does PVA glue, so does priming and so does that watery coat of paint you needed for fully coverage over the sand. It had it’s drawbacks, however – by the time I textured my fifth base, I started to realise just how expensive basing a whole army this way could end up. A 24ml pot of Stirland Mud, for example, will set you back an eye-watering £4.75. This will do you about 30-40x 32mm bases tops. Heck, I’m not 100% convinced it’ll even get you that far, especially if you want more than a paper-thin top coat over the base.
Enter: Vallejo Texture. These bad boys are available from Amazon.co.uk (with Prime delivery) and will set you back anywhere from 7.50 to 11.99 and come in big meaty 200ml jars. Not only is the larger form factor physically easier to access than Games Workshop’s little flip top pots, but buying in bulk works out at considerably cheaper at 4.2p/ml to 6.0p/ml over Games Workshop’s much pricier 19.8p/ml texture paint – getting you anywhere from 3 to 4 times more texture paint for your money. Far more palatable.
There’s a full range of textures from Black Lava to Sand to Snow to thick Brown Mud to Red Martian Earth. I haven’t seen it on Amazon yet, but I know they even do an an alternative to Games Workshop’s cool cracked earth effect, and they sell it.. uhh.. somewhere.
They’re even cheaper at Element Games, who sell some of the range at a discounted price albeit without Prime delivery. You can see everything they have available here. If you prefer to use Prime, you can see a selection on Amazon here.
Vallejo Water Texture
Alright, so this one is pretty closely related to my first recommendation (hence the ‘6 or 7’). It’s another jar of Vallejo Texture, but it’s one that I love for a host different reasons that I wanted to talk about, so it’s getting it’s own entry.
Vallejo Water Texture is my water effect of choice for the vast majority of my miniatures. I’ve had some experience with Still Water and pouring resin in the past and – while they both have their own specific uses – I find Water Texture is the perfect product for a bit of water effect here and there. Yes, it’s still water-based, so it’ll shrink (and take it’s sweet time to cure fully). No, it’s never going to be appropriate for making completely still water effects. No, you can’t use apply it too thickly at a time or it will frost. Despite all of that, it’s just incredibly easy to work with. It goes on in a similar consistency to chocolate pudding – entirely malleable, but it’s still a solid – it won’t run, and it won’t drip. If you give it long enough, it dries perfectly clear and is great for adding some water with depth to even small surfaces areas like bases. If you want, you can even colour it – either a translucent tint with inks or something thick and opaque with regular acrylic paints.
I’ve been using this product since back in 2016 when I rebooted my hobby – I used it originally to create a lava river over my Tablescapes board for Age of Sigmar back then and have loved experimenting with it on miniatures ever since. It’s been used to add some thick slimey texture’s to Nurgle miniatures, and it’s appears absolutely everywhere on my Middle-earth miniatures bases – becoming something of a ‘signature look’ of mine.
Raphael 8404 Kolinsky Red Sable Brushes
A common question from a lot of beginner painters is “what brushes should I use?”
Cards on the table, I can’t answer that for you. Personal preference is always going to be the biggest deciding factor – you need to experiment yourself. You might find you really like Games Workshop’s range – similar to their paints, they’ve got a handy, categorized system to help you pick the right ‘style’ of brush for the job. A lot of great painters use extremely cheap brushes from their local crafts shop and find it doesn’t really help or hinder them. Some people swear by Winsor and Newton’s Series 7 brushes.
Me, I like Raphael 8404.
A lot of great painters will tell you not to rely on teeny tiny brushes for fine details, and instead to use a large brush with a nice, sharp tip; this is great advice. Painting miniatures is most easily accomplished with a bit of paint soaked up the bristles, thinned enough that it flows evenly off the tip without running or pooling. For that, you want a nice fat brush with a good length and a reasonably firm tip, without being too stiff. I suppose the closet thing that Games Workshop produces to that effect is their M Layer brush – maybe a little short and thin for base coating, but if you were to use a single Citadel brush, that’d be the one I’d go for. At £4.75 it won’t break the bank either. If you’re feeling a little more flush, you can spring for the M Artificer Layer – a very similar brush but made with Kolinsky Sable bristles which hold their point a little better while also having a softer flex to them for spreading paint. You’ll pay for it though – they’ll set you back a somewhat steep £16.50.
So, what’s a miniature painter to do? Well, start looking for alternatives. In my time, I’ve sampled Citadel, Army Painter, Element Games’ own brand, Warcolors and Winsor and Newton. Each were lacking in their own way. Citadel were okay, but too expensive for what they were. Army Painter – much like Citadel, albeit at a more reasonable price point.
For a time, I liked Winsor and Newton Series 7 – a range of sable brushes that were widely recommended to me by a number of forum users, blogs and Redditors – but they were far from perfect. Even if you manage to avoid the pitfall of their ‘Miniature’ range1, the bristles were still a little short and thin for my liking. You could remedy this with a larger brush size, though the larger you went the less likely they seemed to be able to keep their point. While cheaper than Citadel, they were still fairly expensive at about £10 per brush – which might’ve been acceptable but for their positively ghastly quality assurance. I probably went through five or six dud W&N brushes over the course of a year before I finally packed it in and swore off the brand – although to this day I’ve still got a Series 7 000 brush which still works great for extremely fine detail work.
After swearing off W&N, I’d heard talk of Warcolors doing a set of brushes for a hell of a price. 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes in a full range of sizes with an attractive brown hilt for only 25 euros. It seemed a little too good to be true, so I ordered some and a bag of 100 glass agitators for my dropper bottle paints. To spoil a boring story, they were too good to be true. They split like nothing else and never kept their point. It cast stray bristles like a Christmas tree. The agitators were great though, and I’ve still got some left to this day.
Honestly, the closest I’d come to a decent brush thus far was maybe the Element Essentials range. They were reasonably serviceable brushes and came as a well priced 3-pack. They reminded me of W&N Series 7 without the quality control issues and for 2/3rds the price. Like the Series 7 though, they were a bit short and thin and not especially hard wearing. The one pack lasted me about three months before getting demoted to drybrush/PVA glue duties.
I tell you all of this not because I want to put down any of these products, but because I wanted to make it clear that I’ve tried most of the big names in miniature paint brushes and a few of the lesser known to boot. Everything from the most expensive, ‘premium’ options down to the cheap and nasty. And in my experience, nothing has ever come close to the Raphael 8404 Kolinsky Red Sable.
The 8404 has everything. The bristles are good quality Kolinsky Sable with a nice pointy tip and a chunky reservoir towards the ferrule. They’ll do the job nicely do detail work at the point, but they’ve got a nice amount of give for when you need to cover a large amount of surface area too. They come at a nice price point – about £8 from Jackon’s for a #1 with the sizes up and down coming at a couple quid above and below thereabouts. This makes them a Premium brush, somewhere between price point of Element Essentials Sable and Winsor & Newton Series 7, but every one of my Raphael brushes have outlasted the longest serving brush I owned from either. As far as quality assurance is concerned, I have had a dud or two from back when I was buying my Raphael’s off of some eBay store, but since switching to Jackson’s I’ve had nothing but good experiences. Even my worst 8404’s haven’t been as categorically unsalvagable as some of the Series 7’s I’ve owned.
Raphael 8404. Great brush. Get them from Jackson’s – a size 1, 0 and maybe a 000 are all you will ever need for base coats, highlighting and extreme details such as pupils a treat.
Mini Mag Tray
Let’s take a break from the hobby tools and materials for a moment and spare a thought for gaming.
I’ve always been a huge fan of magnetised movement trays. Back in my Warhammer Fantasy days (RIP), I used to use a system called ‘Magnaflex’ that I used to order from Essex Miniatures (if I’m recalling that right) which essentially came in two parts – long 25mm strips sticky backed magnetic strip, and A4 sheets of rubber steel. The idea was that you sliced off little 25mm squares to go under your square bases and put the rubber steel over your movement trays. Suddenly, you could move your models around the tabletop without the plastic models falling over, and you could heft big blocks of 20 solid pewter Ironbreakers without worrying you were going to smash them against each other and chip your models. I had hours of fun just tipping blocks of 20 Warriors with great weapons upside down and watching them not fall off.
Since the switch to skirmished round bases in Age of Sigmar, there’s been a lot less magnetic shenanigans to speak of. In the past, I’d mostly used little MDF clouds for my movement trays and I’d be right back to square one with my miniatures rattling all over the shop. This changed a little with my Skaven army – out of a desire to save myself the hassle of setting up 100 Clanrats every time, I built a whole load of movement trays with 4 magnets installed in the corners in order to stick them to my magnetised Really Useful Boxes for transport, and used a hole punch to cut 100 little 30mm circles out of a sheet of rubber steel, and glued them all in place in the movement trays.
The process was arduous, and took about an hour, but it was totally worth it to save myself 15 minutes of set of before each game, and move my Clanrats around without fear of knocking them.
That is, until I’d actually started playing a game.
I decided to go for square movement trays for a change – aesthetically, it looked kind of nice (and reminiscent of the good old WHFB days), but primarily it just seemed the most efficient way to store the models – the trays would fit in snug across the bottom of my Really Useful Box lid without any ‘wasted space’ to speak of, which made transporting them super safe and easy. This was my first mistake. In an actual game of Age of Sigmar, you’re not pivoting battalions of rank and file troops around – if you’re playing a horde army, then you want to squeeze every little rat through every available crevice to get as many models in the place you want them to be. These square movement trays had such a high profile and obtrusive right angles that moving individual models over them was – particularly given their magnetic interactions – an absolute nightmare. The installed corner magnets needed to keep them in place in the case were also proving an annoyance – I didn’t exactly take care to ensure the polarity of the magnets on all my Clanrats was the same direction, so sometimes the tray magnet would repel the one under the miniatures base, causing it not to be ejected from the base slot. The whole thing was a massive irritation.
Enter: Mini Mag Tray. Recommended to me by a nice man on one of my various Warhammer related WhatsApp chat groups, Mini Mag Tray are in my opinion the perfect implementation of a movement tray.
First thing you’ll notice when you hold them is that they feel great. They’re precision cut from high grade steel, with lovely smooth and rounded edges – no sharp edges. They’ve got a nice, satisfying weight to them and feel like they could take a bit of punishment. Being made from steel, this gives them a much stronger magnetic bond than ferrous rubber – which means you can move your trays of plastic miniatures by picking up the centre model without fear that the bond is going to break.
All of this is nice, but the real game changer is their extremely low profile and lack of rim. Aside from being near invisible on the tabletop, the lack of rim also allows the miniatures to get up close and personal, with the ‘cloud’ formation trays allowing the miniatures to be moved together while physically base to base – this means that even when your units get into combat and want to pile in as close to the enemy as possible, the movement trays can still be useful. In fact, beyond the standard ‘cloud’ formation trays, Mini Mag Tray make a number of trays to make piling in relatively painless, from manoeuvrable little 2-3 model trays to their staggered line trays which make charging a breeze. This lack of rim also makes the trays an incredibly efficient use of space – both in transportation and on the tabletop. As the trays (with the exception of their specific ‘open formation‘ trays) are designed to move miniatures in base-to-base with each other with minimal overhang, this means the various trays fit together really well – allowing you to mix and match trays to best suit how you want to move (or transport) your unit.
As if that wasn’t enough, the low profile means you can still transport your miniatures in your magnetic transport solutions (such as a Magna Rack, A-Case or Really Useful Box with some rubber steel) through the tray – saving you time in set up, just like I tried to do with my Skaven army. As a final
In a nutshell, Mini Mag Tray are by a considerable margin the best implementation of the humble movement tray that I’ve encountered thus far. They’re practical, attractive and they’re not insanely expensive either2. They not only look great on the tabletop, but they where they really impress is how genuinely useful they are as a gaming aid where so many of their contemporaries rapidly become more hassle than they’re worth. I love them.
Buy them direct from Mini Mag Tray.
CA Glue Accelerator
This stuff changed my whole outlook on assembling Resin and Metal miniatures.
This is one of those suggestions that you’ve definitely heard before, but there’s a good chance you never acted on it. Don’t do that any more – go get a can of this stuff.
First of all, it’s cheap. It’s so cheap. You can get a can of this stuff from Amazon for £4.40 – and that’s even before some serious multibuy discounts. A can of CA Glue Accelerator will last you months at a time and will pay for itself a hundred times over in hours saved and frustration averted.
Second of all, it’s not dangerous. I don’t really know where that idea even comes from, but I know myself in the early days of the hobby reading about ‘being careful for CA glue accelerant’. I guess it’s pretty flammable, but so are most rattle cans, and we all use those. Just don’t set it on fire or inhale the spray fumes and you won’t harm yourself any worse than you normally would with a bottle of CA glue.
As far as using it goes.. it’s dead simple. Glue your model together. Hold the pieces. Instead of waiting forever for it to air dry, spray a little Accelerant over it and watch it dry in seconds.
If you’ve ever stuck a magnet under a miniatures base without this stuff, it’s going to rock your entire foundations. Just get some already.
Get it from Amazon.
Vallejo Model Color Black
That’s right. Vallejo Model Color Black is by leaps and bounds my favourite inexpensive, readily available black miniature paint.
I love this stuff with a fiery passion. At the end of the day, which paints are going to work for you depends on how you approach painting and what you want to accomplish with the paint – I can’t tell you what ‘the best’ black is. I know there’s a ton of speciality paints you can order online to achieve ‘true black’. I know some people will prefer their blacks to be slightly transparent for easier use in blending.
The vast majority of my black paint goes on base rims though. With the exception of a few of my armies, the majority of my miniatures get the rims of their bases painted in black – consequentially, I go through a lot of black paint.
A lot of the stuff you can get easily however – whether from your FLGS, your local Games Workshop or even convenient online sources such as Amazon – is frustrating to work with. I’m talking about Vallejo Game, Army Painter Warpaints and Citadel here – all of these Black paints can suffer from either weak pigmentation or generally being a bit awkward to work with. Army Painter tends to go on very streaky, and takes a number of coats to get a clean, even coverage over white. Vallejo Game and Citadel are both rather.. gummy. They have a strange sort of elasticity to them, a bit like tar and it makes spreading them evenly a bit of a chore. All of these paints also suffer from drying with a very satin looking finish – they’re smooth and a little reflective.
Enter: Model Color Black. I had this paint recommended to me as recently as a couple of months ago, and I was frankly skeptical. I thought, “could it really be that different from Vallejo’s Game Color equivalent? Black is black.”
I couldn’t have been more wrong. Vallejo Model Color Black goes on as smoothly as any other acrylic miniature paint, though definitely benefits from a little thinning with water. That being said, it’s free from the “stickiness” of Game Color or Citadel and the pigmentation is rich and opaque – often times, when I’m painting the rims of my miniatures, I’ll only even need a single coat of this for perfect coverage. And when it dries, it dries in this incredible matt finish – not the biggest deal when you’re varnishing your miniatures anyway, but it can make a big difference if you plan to drybrush over it, or just want a better idea of what it’s going to look like after you smash that varnish topcoat over.
Everlasting Wet Palette
The Everlasting Wet Palette is the only wet palette that has ever 100% sold me on the concept. It’s one of those products that.. just works.
I’m not here to sell you on the concept of wet palettes themselves – there is plenty of discussion on that particular topic available already. What I am going to sell you on is this particular product, because – as I’ve said – it’s the only one I’ve ever found myself sticking to religiously.
Back when I was making my first steps back into the hobby, assembling and painting a Warhammer Quest boxed game, I’d told myself that I wanted to do it right this time. While I did enjoy a bit of hobby in my teenage years, I never really felt like I was ever a ‘good’ painter or modeller. This time, I wanted to do it right – so I read up on the subject while my miniatures were in the mail to me, and I figured out exactly what I’d need to get started. I learned about how to properly clean up mould lines and flash, how to properly prime miniatures and how to ‘thin your paints’. One hot topic that kept coming up that I’d never really heard of before was the wet palette. So, I decided to give that a go.
Not wanting to risk messing it up myself, I’d ordered myself a P3 Wet Palette from Privateer Press. It came with a clip sealable little plastic tub, a grey sponge for the reservoir and a pack of porous paper sheets for the palette itself. It was.. not great. The sponge – not a million miles off the sort of material that used to line the backs of blister packs back in the day – didn’t really wick the water very evenly, and the paper had a tendency to dry out at the edges and curl inward. Now, this is ultimately unavoidable as water always evaporates from the greatest surface area first – even on my Everlasting Wet Palette – but this sponge seemed to lose it’s moisture really quickly. In fact, I would rarely get through a painting session without having to add more water and potentially mess up the consistency of my paints, never mind leave it sealed for a few hours and return to it. Of course, when it wasn’t losing it’s moisture, the sponge had a bit of a tendency to mould – and after a relatively short space of time, it started to smell.
I found myself more and more often gravitating towards using dry pallets to avoid the faff. Eventually, I binned it.
Following this, I’d tried a Masterson’s Sta-Wet Palette. This too was.. sub-optimal. While the palette was an improvement over the P3 one, I found it fragile and time consuming to maintain with daily use. Instead of a sponge and a sheet of paper, it included a third element – a thick sheet of absorbent paper that lived between the sponge and the porous paper. Admittedly, this did improve the wicking towards the edges and prevent it from drying up as quickly as the P3 palette did, but it came at a cost. While the Sta-Wet managed to last a little longer before moulding like the P3 palette, that was largely because I started throwing away the palette sheets after every painting session. The Sta-Wet did a great job of wicking, but was a little over zealous. The palette would behave perfectly for the first couple hours of painting, but gradually over time the porous paper began to become more and more saturated on the top side – where the paint was. In a nutshell, this meant that should I have the audacity to put the lid on the palette and return to use my paints the next day, the palette would have flooded with water and all the paints reduced to a running, over-thinned mess.
This could have been tolerable, but not only were the refills expensive, but the process of replacing the paper was something of a faff as well. The additional effort required in lining up this wick-promoting middle sheet with the top layer maybe wasn’t the end of the world, but it was the straw that broke the camel’s back. Eventually, it became too much of a chore that I found myself once again gravitating towards disposable dry palettes out of convenience.
That’s when I learned about the Everlasting Wet Palette. I’d seen the Kickstarter when it was initially active, but truth be told I wasn’t really sold on it. At the time, I was a little jaded from my previous wet palette experiences and going through one of my longest dry palette slumps. The Everlasting Wet Palette just seemed like an awful lot of money, and I wasn’t willing to fork out any more in the pursuit of this allegedly useful tool.
A couple of months later however, the stars just sort of.. aligned. I’d been painting with dry pallets for a few months and finding myself getting more and more frustrated with paint drying up on my palette. Around about that time, I’d seen mention of the EWP on the internet again and – having some hobby funds to burn and too much of a backlog to consider getting more models – I decided to splash out on the new wet palette in hopes that it would finally be convenient enough to use on the daily.
And it was an absolute revelation.
The palette hardware is wonderful. It’s got a low, flat profile that makes it easy to store. The plastic is light but thick and sturdy enough that it could take a bit of punishment – you needn’t worry about it cracking in transit like the Sta-Wet Palette, this thing could likely take your weight without breaking. The tray itself feels good to open and put away – simply lift off the top, flip it, and dock the bottom into the reverse. It sits nice and snug and the rubber seal prevents any annoying movement or rattling. When closed, the seal does a great job of keeping the palette wet between daily painting sessions without any curled edges, but as it’s only held together with a band of elasticated cotton, I’m not totally confident it could be transported active without leakage. The magnetically attached dry pallete ‘wavy’ does the job it’s designed for reasonably well – the magnets are strong and the setup feels natural and tidy, though in all honestly I can’t remember the last time I actually used mine.
The real star of the show however is the hydration paper and foam pad.
Let’s talk longevity. First of all, I can confirm that the hydration foam really is mould resistant. I’ve owned my palette for around 16 months at this stage and I’m still on my first foam pad. The spare that came with my palette is still sitting in it’s original packaging because to date my foam pad does not smell. That’s a bit of a weird ‘feature’ to be celebrating, but it’s honestly such a massive improvement over previous wet palettes.
Second of all, your sheets of hydration paper will last you ages. I’m only just now approaching the end of the second pack of sheets (that’s 100 sheets in total) that came with my palette, and I’ve been using the product almost daily for almost a year and a half. That’s in no small part due to the fact that the paper never goes to waste (unless I’m silly enough to forget to close the palette and leave it overnight) because the product is just so practically designed.
The palette itself is slightly larger than the foam, which is slightly larger than the paper – seems like a simple idea, but you’d be surprised how many products fail at this stage. What this means is that the foam – which does a wonderful job of wicking the water in the palette evenly throughout the material – is able to dry out a little at the edges before the paper is affected, which gives you a little buffer time period and a visual indication that you might want to add a little water to the pallet to keep it going. As the palette is a little bigger than the foam, there’s plenty of space to drip a little water around all the edges, which will wick it up and redistribute itself evenly – without the risk of spilling over the top of your paper and causing all of your paint to run.
All of this means that the palette just keeps going and going without any unnecessary waste, and the only time I need to change my paper is when I completely run out of space. If you’re feeling especially frugal, the hydration paper is actually reasonably thick and will stand up to a good wiping, should you wish to simply wash the paint off your paper instead of outright replacing it.
Of course, when you do wish to replace your paper, it’s an absolute doddle. Simply pull the dry or messy paper off the top and throw it in the bin, pull a nice, precut sheet from your refill pack, squeeze the hydration foam under a tap like a sponge and – after a good re-moistening – smooth another sheet of paper over the top of your foam. Simple as that. Heck, it’s made even easier by the build of the palette itself – it’s sturdy and won’t bend of buckle, even if you put a good bit of pressure on it as you’re smoothing out your hydration paper.
The final point I want to make about the Everlasting Wet Palette – and arguably the most important – is it’s performance as, well, a wet palette. As with build quality, longevity and ease of setup, it’s safe to say that this product is a cut above it’s contemporaries. The hydration foam does an wonderful job of wicking the water from the palette evenly and consistently, keeping the palette evenly wet throughout and sparing me from any nasty puddles that cause the paint to run or dry spots that cause the paper to crinkle from the centre out. Likewise, the hydration paper itself lets just enough moisture through to keep my paints wet without over thinning them over time like my previous Sta-Wet palettes did. I can use this palette all day, re-hydrating the edges of the foam as necessary, then leave it closed overnight and return the next day with little to no impact on the paints on my palette. To my eyes, that is a miracle.
At the end of the day, there’s not one component of the Everlasting Wet Palette that stands alone as a game changer – it’s just a really well thought product with a wonderful execution. It’s the first wet palette with an “Effort Saved vs Effort to Set Up” ratio is so high that I haven’t gone a single painting session without it in the 16+ months that I’ve owned it.
It’s great. Buy it direct from RedGrassGames here.
So, that’s 6 or 7 hobby products that make my life better. Hopefully you’ll be able to take something useful away from this list – whether it’s a cheaper alternative to a product you already use or at least some vindication that someone else likes the things you do.
If there’s any hobby products you absolutely love that I’ve missed out, I’d love to hear about it! Either leave a comment below or shoot me an email at complaints [at] michaelhanns.com.
Until then, thanks for reading, and happy wargaming!
1 Miniature, in the context of W&N Series 7 brushes, refers to the length of the bristles and not – as they are widely mistaken for – a range designed for painting miniatures with.
2 That being said, the costs can and will add up if you were looking to outfit a full 120+ model Skaven army with these trays. I sort of wish there was a bulk buy discount, which would make big investments a little less daunting.